Nov 242010

Still working on Christmas cards and following Kristina Werner and her Holiday Card Series.  Her card from day 14 is a great, simple design.  So simple, in fact, that I got carried away cutting out squares and ended up making  five of them in no time.

christmas card merry christmas squares

I just picked up bits of patterned paper from my scrap pile and started cutting squares.  Here are the dimensions you’ll need:

The card is 4 1/4″ square.

You’ll need 8 – 1 1/8″ pieces of patterned paper for the background, a 2 1/2″ square of dark paper for a  mat and a 2 1/4″ square of light paper to stamp on.

I lightly penciled in a line 1/4″ in from all four edges to help place the squares evenly.


Stamps: Snowflake wood border stamp, Studio G; Merry Christmas clear stamp, Studio G
Ink: Aged Mahogany Tim Holtz Distress Ink , Weathered Wood Tim Holtz Distress Ink
Papers: Seasonal Paper Stash Paper Pad (Tim Holtz),  Yuletide 12X12 Specialty Paper Pad (K & Company)
Gel Pen: Uni Ball Signo Gel Pen Broad Point
Dimensional adhesive: Squares Foam Tabs
Adhesive: Mono Adhesive Dispenser Permanent
Other:  1/8″ self adhesive gemstones


Nov 232010

There’s something about these glittered snowflakes that I just LOVE, but I’ve had them for over a year and never could seem to find a use for them.  When I saw Kristina’s day 15 card, I said, “AHA! Sparkly snowflakes, here we go!”  (Yes, it made me very happy.  Simple things, you know  . . . )

christmas card sparkle snowflakes

This is another extraordinarily easy card that can be made in multiples.  The steps for a 4 1/4″ x 5 1/2″ card:

  1. Cut patterned paper to 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
  2. Adhere with dimensional adhesive.  (Being sure to NOT put adhesive where the bow will go.)
  3. Draw faux stitching around patterned paper.  (This is one of Kristina’s signature elements.  It really does add a nice touch.)
  4. Stamp sentiment on red paper.  Cut into banner shape.  Adhere to card.
  5. Adhere snowflakes.
  6. Tie on ribbon for bow.

Here’s a stamping tip for you:  You don’t always have to use the entire stamp.  The stamp I used for the sentiment has a border which I didn’t want.


There are a few ways to get around using the whole image. I was embossing, so I used an embossing pen to only color in the sentiment.  Alternately, you could stamp the entire thing on the ink pad, then carefully wipe the ink off the areas you don’t want.  Also, you can use markers to color in just the areas you want.  This makes your stamp collection much more versatile!


Paper: Seasonal Paper Stash Paper Pad (Tim Holtz),  Glad Tidings Card Make Paper Pad 
(K & Company)
Adhesives: Squares Foam Tabs, Mono Adhesive Dispenser Permanent
Stamp: Merry Christmas stamp, Studio G
Ink: Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Ink Pad, Clear For Embossing
Embossing Powder: Zing! White Opaque Embossing Powder 1 oz
Gel Pen: Uni Ball Signo Gel Pen Broad Point
Glittered Snowflakes: Nicole Arts Glittzers, Adhesive backed embellishments
Gold edged 1/8″ white satin ribbon
Embossing pen: Embossing Pen (Inkadinkado)

Nov 222010

After taking time out to make a dolly for my granddaughter, I’m back to making Christmas cards. The gold embossing on this one didn’t photograph very well, sorry about the crummy pic!

christmas card scalloped oval gold embossed

This is another that is easily made in multiples.  You can do each of the steps assembly line style.  The steps on this card are few:

  1. Stamp the background
  2. Die cut the ovals, edge lightly with Aged Mahogany Distress Ink
  3. Stamp and emboss the sentiment
  4. Adhere the larger oval
  5. Tie on the ribbon
  6. Adhere the smaller oval with dimensional adhesive.


Happy crafting.  🙂

Music Background Cling Stamps   (Hero Arts)
Aged Mahogany Tim Holtz Distress Ink
Spellbinders Nestabilities Large Petite Scalloped Ovals Die Template
Yuletide 12X12 Specialty Paper Pad (K & Company)
Solid cardstock, red
Christmas Silhouettes Clear Stamps 5 pc Set Inkadinkado
Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Ink Pad, Clear For Embossing
Ranger Super Fine Embossing Powder 1-Ounce, Gold
Gold edged white satin ribbon

Nov 212010

Welcome back to the final day of our Topsy-Turvy doll directions.  For the previous days, see:  part 1, part 2, part 3.

Today we’ll make the yarn hair for our doll.  I used Red Heart brand in worsted weight, but you can use whatever you like or have on hand.  You’ll need to find a book (or a rigid object) that is 14″ across.  Wrap the yarn around this object 80-100 times.  (I got a little overenthusiastic and wrapped mine 130 times!  As a result, my doll’s hairs is a bit thicker than strictly necessary. Ah well.)  If you have thinner yarn make more wraps, or use less wraps for thicker yarn.


Once your book is all wrapped, find the center of this bundle of yarn.  To hold the yarns in place for sewing, place a piece of painter’s tape slightly to one side of center and another to the other side of center, leaving a 1/2″ gap.  Do this on both sides of the book.


Now, gently slide your yarn off the book.  (This is the tricky part, just take your time.  Don’t worry if it gets a little messed up while sliding.)  Your yarn bundle should look something like this:


Lengthen the stitch on your sewing machine and sew down the middle of your bundle of yarn, right between the two pieces of tape.  To keep the yarns from getting caught on the presser foot and feed dogs, sandwich your bundle between two pieces of waxed paper while sewing.  Make sure to backstitch to secure both ends.  Gently remove the tape and waxed paper.


Hand stitch the seam to your doll’s head.  This seam becomes the center part of her hair.  Since mine was so thick, and difficult to sew, I also lifted up the hair on either side of the part and applied a line of glue to further secure it.


Repeat this wig-making process to make hair for the other side of the doll.

You can now style your doll’s hair as desired.  If you want to trim the yarn loops, that’s fine.  I left in the loops because this doll is going to a two-year old and I don’t want her to be able to pull out single strands of yarn.  My day doll’s hair is pulled back and the night doll’s hair is in ponytails.

If desired, hand sew the nightcap to the sleeping doll’s head.  Now is the time to add whatever other trimmings you like.  I gave the day doll a ribbon rose and sash for her dress and flowers for her hair.


The sleeping doll got  a ribbon rose on her bodice, ribbons on her pigtails and a teddy bear.  I had to carefully position the bear so that it didn’t show as a big lump under the day dress.

And here she is, once again.  Hope my granddaughter loves her!

topsy turvy doll awake

topsy turvy doll asleep

If you decide to make a topsy turvy doll of your own, please send me pictures.  I’d love to see what you’ve done!

Nov 202010

We’re continuing on with our Topsy-Turvy doll.  If you missed the previous posts, you can find part 1 here  and part 2 here.  Hope you’re having fun with this project!  We’re making this little lady.  Her sleeping counterpart is underneath her dress.  Kinda fun!

topsy turvy doll awake

topsy turvy doll asleep

For the skirts of the dresses: (10″x40″ pieces)

Topstitch lace 2″ from one long edge of each skirt.  Lace will be towards bottom of skirt.

Sew center back seams of skirts, leaving 3″ unsewn at top.  Press this seam open and continue pressing back 1/4″ on unsewn section.  Sew skirts together along bottom edges.  Press this seam open, then fold along seam and press, creating a double-sided skirt.


Treating skirts as one, gather top edge.  This is very heavily gathered so I like to zigzag over a cord (like crochet cotton) to make my gathers.


Gather the skirts to fit the bodices and sew the waistline seam, matching center backs and having gathers even all around.  (The skirts will be sandwiched between the two bodice sections.)  Check to make sure the seam is satisfactory, then remove crochet cotton and trim seam to reduce bulk.

Now it’s time to dress your doll.  Make sure you put the nightgown on the side with the sleeping face and the day dress on the awake face.  Hand sew the open center back seams on both dresses.

We’re coming down the home stretch!  Tomorrow we’ll give our ladies their hair and finish up.

Click here to go directly to the 4th and final part.

Nov 192010

Welcome to part 2 of our Topsy-Turvy doll.  If you’re jumping into the middle, you can find part 1 here.

This is what we’re making:

topsy turvy doll awake

topsy turvy doll asleep

At this point your doll faces should be complete, the bodies and arms should be sewn, stuffed and handstitched closed.  Now you need to bring the arms to the sewing machine and stitch three lines on each hand to make the finger divisions.  As long as you stuffed this lightly, you shouldn’t have any problems.  Start sewing at the edge of each hand and stitch up towards the shoulder, then backstitch on the same line all the way back to your starting point.  If your machine balks at stitching through all the thickness, you can hand sew these lines or skip this step altogether.

To sew the arms to the bodies, use very heavy thread and a long needle, like a doll needle.  The thread I like to use is labeled “Extra Strong for Buttons, Carpets and Crafts.”  Use doubled thread to go through the dots on the arm, then through the shoulder and back.  Go around 3-4 times.  Bury the knot in the doll. (In this photo I have the thread loose to show the path it needs to take.  You’ll have to pull it tight as you sew.)


To make the clothing:

With right sides together, sew lace to necklines of both bodices.  Match the raw edge of bodice to the gathered edge of the lace.  If you wish, press seam toward bodice and topstitch to hold in place.


In the same manner sew lace to the edges of the nightgown sleeves and the nightcap.

Finish sleeve edges of day dress.  Fold on line and stitch to make a casing.


Use 4 4.5″ pieces of 1/4″ elastic.  Use a zigzag stitch to sew one to each nightgown sleeve 1 1/2″ from finished edge of lace.  (Tip:  Leave the elastic long and mark at 4.5″.  This gives you something to hold on to while sewing.)




Insert the remaing 2 pieces of elastic into sleeve casings on day dress, tacking in place in seam allowance.

Cut a 13″ piece of 1/4″ elastic.  Zigzag stitch this to the nightcap, 2″ in from finished edge of lace.

Sew all sleeve and underarm seams.

Well, that’s plenty for today.  Phew!  Tomorrow we’ll decorate the skirts and get our dolly dressed.

Click here to go directly to Part 3.

Nov 182010

I used to sew so many so many of the Christmas gifts for my family, but as my boys got older I did less and less.  However, now that I have a granddaughter, it feels good to get back into it!

This year I’m making Cady this topsy-turvy doll.  On one end the dolly is awake, flip up her dress and she’s asleep in her flannel nightgown and cap.  I’ve made several of these over the years, and it’s always fun.    There’s something quite charming and magical about them.

topsy turvy doll awake

topsy turvy doll asleep

If you’d like to make your own dolly for someone special, you can find the patterns here.  (When you print out the patterns, make sure to tape together the two body sections along the thin line, matching the marks.)

For materials you’ll need:

  • 1/3 yard flesh tone fabric for head/ body and arms
  • 1/2 yard fabric for day dress
  • 5/8 yard flannel fabric for nightgown and cap
  • 2 yards lace trim for day dress
  • 3 yards lace trim for nightgown and cap
  • 1 yard ribbon to trim waist of day dress
  • 1 yard 1/4″ elastic
  • polyfil stuffing
  • permanent markers or embroidery floss for faces
  • yarn for hair
  • additional trims such as ribbon roses, ribbons for hair, teddy bear, if desired

Start by making the faces.  I often embroider them with embroidery floss.  If you do so, I recommend you just trace the head/body pattern onto your fabric but don’t cut it out until after the embroidery is done.  This gives you material for your hoop to grip onto.   Or you can do like I did this year and color in the faces with markers.  Make sure to use permanent markers that won’t run if they get wet.


I used my Pigma Micron Pen set in size 01 for the black outlines and red for the lips.  I used the brush tip end of a Marvy Le Plume II in Salvia Blue to color in the eyes.  Don’t forget to add a tiny bit of white for the catchlights in the eyes.  Acrylic paint on a toothpick will work nicely for that bit.


Cut out all pattern pieces from the indicated fabrics.  In addition to the pattern pieces in the pdf, you’ll need to cut a 10″x40″ piece from each of the day dress and nightgown fabrics for the skirts and a 13″ circle from the nightgown fabric for the nightcap.

The head/body patterns in the pdf need to be joined together before cutting out.  In the photo below you can see the shape you will have (weird, huh?)  (You DO NOT need to have a seam at the waistline like I do.  I had some small pieces of fleshtone fabrics that needed to be pieced this way.)


The bodice/sleeve pieces are a little confusing.  They are cut on TWO folds.

*****Update 1/25/2012******

Several folks have been confused by this step, so I’ve added some photos that I hope will clear it up.

First, make a fold in your fabric that is a little deeper than the pattern piece, about 4.5″.


Next, fold the fabric again, this time perpendicular to the first fold.


Now you have two adjacent folds, at a 90° angle to each other. Place the pattern piece on the fabric with the long “place on fold” edge along the long fold, and the shorter “place on fold” edge along the shorter fold.


Here’s a close up of the corner when the folds meet. As you can see, you will be cutting through four thicknesses.


The resulting piece looks like this:


You will need to cut along one of the short folds to make the dress back opening.

Hope that is clear!  Please feel free to contact me with any questions.

A 1/4″ seam allowance is used throughout, unless stated otherwise. (Seam allowances are included in the patterns.)

Once the faces have been completed you can sew the two body/head sections together, meeting right sides and leaving an opening where indicated.  Also sew the arm pieces to make 4 arms.

topsy-turvy-doll-armHere’s a great trick for any time you need to leave an opening for turning:  Sew perpendicular to the seam from the raw edge in to the seam line, then sew your seam.  At the end of the seam sew back to the raw edge.  Now, when you turn your piece right side out, it’s very easy to find where you need to sew up the opening.


Clip all curves, turn all pieces right side out and stuff with fiberfill. When you stuff the hands, stuff the fingers only lightly, as later we’ll be machine stitching in lines to make fingers.

Here’s a tip for smooth stuffing:  Whichever side of the project you want to look smoothest (the faces in this instance) have that side DOWN while you are stuffing.  Don’t know why it works, but it always does.

Once all the pieces are stuffed, hand sew the openings closed.

I’m off to finish stuffing now, and then to bed.  Check back tomorrow for more of the directions.

Click here to go directly to part 2.

Nov 152010

I’ve really been enjoying Kristina Werner’s Holiday Card series over at her blog.  Her ideas are always have clean and simple lines, which makes them easy to adapt to your own style and supplies.

She made this one on Day 7 using her Silhouette.  I don’t have a digital cutter so, at first I thought of printing out some lettering in reverse on the backside of cardstock and cutting that out with a craft knife.  Then I looked at the quantity of cuts and decided one would have to be CRAZY to do that.

So, instead, I printed my words on a transparency.  The only problem was adhering it down invisibly.  Some vellum adhesive worked quite nicely.

If you don’t count the time spent fiddling with fonts, sizes, colors and arrangement, this is a fairly quick card.  🙂

christmas card call his name Jesus

Supplies used:

Pattern papers: Seasonal Paper Stash Paper Pad (Tim Holtz), Yuletide 12X12 Specialty Paper Pad (K & Company)
Font: Arial
Software: Printmaster – Platinum Version 18  (I’ve been using Printmaster since version 4.0 and love it for all kinds of desktop publishing uses.)
Glue:  EK Zig 2-Way Chisel Glue Pen,  Mono Vellum Adhesive Dispenser,  3/16-Inch Mini Glue Dots Roll
Transparency: Computer Grafix Ink Jet Film, Clear
Stickers: Jolee’s Boutique Dimensional Stickers – Poinsettias & Holly
Corner rounder: Memory Makers


Kristina has the most beautiful handwriting, and she uses it often on her cards.  See Day 8, for example.

My handwriting is terrible.  It doesn’t matter how careful I am or how slowly I go, it is definitely NOT card-worthy.

However, I love this stamp and was dying to use it, so here we are.  First I stamped the image with Distress Embossing Ink and then embossed with fine black embossing powder.  You could also stamp it in black and then emboss with clear.  The idea is to make it waterproof and give a little barrier for the watercolors.

After embossing, I used watercolor pencils to color it in.  Fun, quick and easy!

I used Spellbinders to cut the felt.  Even with a shim in my Big Kick, it didn’t cut through completely, but it was enough.

christmas card deck the halls hanging cat

Supplies used:

Watercolor paper: Strathmore Series 140 Lb. cold press 9″ x 12″ Watercolor Pads
Stamp: Fluffles Garland – Rubber Stamps (Stampendous)
Ink:  Vintage Photo Tim Holtz Distress Ink , Ranger Tim Holtz Distress Ink Pad, Clear For Embossing
Embossing powder: Super Fine Detail Embossing Powder, black (Ranger)
Watercolor pencils: Faber-Castell 24-Color GRIP Watercolor EcoPencil Set
Oval template: Coluzzle nested ovals
Die cut: Spellbinders Nestabilities Large Petite Scalloped Ovals Die Template
Gel Pen: Uni Ball Signo Gel Pen Broad Point
Adhesive:  3/16-Inch Mini Glue Dots Roll
Other: red felt, ribbon by Offray

The last one for today is based on Kristina’s day 9 design.

The glittered chipboard letters were white and I colored them with alcohol ink.  This is a great way to stretch your supplies, buy things in white and then color them to meet your needs.

christmas card joy ornament

Die: Yellow Die – Ornament (Sizzix)
Pattern papers:  Yuletide 12X12 Specialty Paper Pad (K & Company)
Scallop Punch: Doily Lace Edge Craft Punch (Martha Stewart)
Circle punch: Circle 1.25 Inch Paper Shapers Nesting Punch (EK Success)
Ink: Ranger Adirondack Alcohol Ink, Cranberry,  Vintage Photo Tim Holtz Distress Ink ,  Fired Brick Tim Holtz Distress Ink
Gel Pen: Uni Ball Signo Gel Pen Broad Point
Glue: Matte Multi-Medium 4Oz
Wire: 22 gauge copper wire
Other: red felt, gold metallic paper, glittered chipboard letters


Nov 132010

So, I’ve been trying to get caught up making Christmas cards inspired by Kristina Werner’s Holiday card series. Here are the ones I made today.

I really like the vellum window, but it took quite a bit of time to cut out the pieces. The way I did it I had to cut the window three times. Once out of the card, once from the red cardstock and once from another cardstock to go on the inside to keep everything neat. Definitely not a quick project. (Based on the Day 3 card).

christmas card snowflakes on vellum


Supplies used:

Clear stamp: Inkadinkado 7-Piece Snowflakes A-Plenty Clear Stamp
Pattern papers: Seasonal Paper Stash Paper Pad (Tim Holtz), Yuletide 12X12 Specialty Paper Pad (K & Company)
Scallop Punch: Scallop Sentiment Border Punch (Fiskars)
Embossing Powder:  Zing! White Opaque Embossing Powder (this seems to be out of stock everywhere, glad I got some when I did!)
Rub on : Snow Flurries (October Afternoon)
Ribbon: Offray


Next up is my card based on her day 4:

I stamped the reindeer with Fired Brick Distress Ink and then embossed with clear. This really made it pop nicely.

When embossing on vellum, have your heat tool already hot and heat the vellum no more than necessary, keeping the tool moving. This will keep buckling to a minumum.

Merry christmas card with white embossing

Supplies used:

Pattern papers: Seasonal Paper Stash Paper Pad (Tim Holtz), Yuletide 12X12 Specialty Paper Pad (K & Company)
Stamp: Christmas Silhouettes Clear Stamps 5 pc Set Inkadinkado
Circle Cutter: EK Success Circle Scissor Pro
Ink: Fired Brick Tim Holtz Distress Ink
Embossing powders: Ranger Embossing Powder 1-Ounce, Clear, Zing! White Opaque Embossing Powder 1 oz (this seems to be out of stock everywhere, glad I got some when I did!)
Glue pen: EK Zig 2-Way Chisel Glue Pen
Ribbon: Morex Corps, Sweet Petites, Sonya Red, 5/8″


I’m not really thrilled with the mix of lettering on this card, but, I was using up what I had rather than buying new. Sometimes you just gotta make do, ya know?

The inspiration is Kristina’s day 5 card.

I apologize that I don’t know the source of any of the chipboard pieces I’m using on these cards. It was from a box I picked up on clearance at Joann’s a year or so ago.

The good news is that not having the exact same supplies forces us all to be even more creative! 🙂

merrry christmas card banner

Supplies used:

Alpha stickers: Mickey Alphabet sheet, red (Sandy Lion), Little Letters, 1/2″ green (Making Memories)
Scallop Punch: Scallop Sentiment Border Punch (Fiskars)
Pattern papers: Yuletide 12X12 Specialty Paper Pad (K & Company)
Rub ons: Eskimo Kiss (Basic Grey)
Gel Pen: Uni Ball Signo Gel Pen Broad Point


And the last one I made tonight was based on the day 6 card:

The “peace” letters look much cooler in person. I started with grungeboard alpha minis, painted them white and then coated with Stardust Stickles. Love that sparkly look!

christmas card peace snowflakes ornament

Supplies used:

Pattern papers: Seasonal Paper Stash Paper Pad (Tim Holtz), Yuletide 12X12 Specialty Paper Pad (K & Company)
Felt: 3D Felt Stickers (Joann’s)
Letters: Advantus Corporation Grungeboard Minis, Plain Alphabet
Paint: Snow Cap Paint Dabber
Glitter: Ranger 1/2-Ounce Stickles Glitter Glue, Stardust
Ink: Peeled Paint Tim Holtz Distress Ink
Cording: Darice Lame Cord 1 Ply 25 Yards Gold
Other: twill tape, Studio G Alphabet stamp set
Gel Pen: Uni Ball Signo Gel Pen Broad Point

Nov 122010

I’ve been following Kristina Werner’s Holiday Card Series over at her blog, and was going to make another Christmas card today, but then I remembered a friend who has a birthday coming up next week.  Kristina’s day 2 design works perfectly for a birthday card.

birthday card with paper pieced flower

Kristina used her Silhouette to cut out the card and flower.  Since I don’t have a Silhouette, I used my Coluzzle.  The center circle is 2 3/4″ and the green cardstock is 4 1/2″.  For the flower I punched 1 1/4″ circles and glued them around the back of the inner circle.


It’s a good idea to use a repositionable adhesive on the back of the circle you’re covering with round punches as, inevitably, something will have to be repositioned at the end.


In order to have a completely round card, and not have a slice missing at the top, cut two circles for your card base.  Score one of the circles an inch or so from one edge and cover that small section with glue.  Adhere your other circle and now you have a round card that will open neatly.


Supplies used:

  • Solid cardstock:  Best Occasions Textured Cardstock in Pastel
  • Patterned paper for flower petals and center circle: Debbie Mumm 4.5″x6.5″ Premium Pack with Glitter, Baby Boy
  • Stamp set: Fiskars Make a Wish Quotes
  • Ink: Colorbox Fluid Chalk Ink, Dark Moss
  • White Gel Pen: Signo Uniball Broad
  • Glues:  Hermafix Dotto & Claudine Hellmuth Studio Multi-Medium, Matte