Today we have the third and final installment of our three part series, A Primer on Sewing with Knit Fabrics. If you missed Part One, you can find it here; Part Two is here.
Sewing with knits
Many folks who have been frustrated when sewing with knits find there are just two simple changes they need to put into practice. These often make all the difference in the world in their ease of sewing and happiness with the finished garment.
They are:
1. Use a ball point or a stretch needle (size 75/11 or 80/12 is usually just right for jersey and slinky knits)
Notice that I only have one needle left, that’s because I’ve been doing a LOT of sewing with knits.
2. Instead of sewing with a straight stitch, use the very smallest zigzag stitch your machine will do.
The top row of stitching is a straight stitch, the bottom row is a slight zigzag. When the seams are pressed open, you cannot tell the difference.
The rationale for each:
- When sewing with knits you want the needle to slide between the threads of the fabric rather than pierce them; this is what a rounded, or ball point, needle will do. (If the needle pierces the threads it causes runs, snags and skipped stitches.)
- Since your fabric has stretch, so your seams need to stretch. (Ever hear that dreadful “popping” sound when you pull a knit top over your head? That’s because the seams didn’t stretch along with the fabric and the threads broke.)
This very slightest of zigzags looks and feels like a straight stitch, but has just a bit of stretch. Many machines have special “stretch” stitches, but I have yet to find one I like as much as just a simple small zigzag. By all means, experiment with what your machine can do
So there you have it, sewing with knits is easy, and the finished garments are comfy and fun to wear. Just keep in mind:
- Pick the right fabric for the right pattern
- Cut out with care
- Use a ball point or stretch needle
- Sew with a stretch stitch, such as a small zigzag
Now, I want to see all the knit garments ya’ll are going to make!
Oh, now you tell me. A ZIGZAG stitch. Well, that would certainly make a difference. But I’ll never look as good in those knits as you do.
Awww, you’re too kind.
If you found the primer even a little bit helpful, then I’ve accomplished my purpose. 🙂