You all have seen me make lots of clothing and review many, many patterns, but didja notice that I’ve never done any pants?

Yup, I’m admit it, I’m chicken.  bwack-bwack

But, I’m also really tired of wearing ill-fitting pants.  So, I decided to make that the next project.  The first step was to search through all my back issues of Threads magazine looking for pants articles.

The January 2008 issue (#134) had the perfect article.  It tells you not just how to make a commercial pants pattern fit well, but how to make your own custom pattern from your personal measurements.

Brilliant!

I wish I could share the directions here, but they aren’t mine to share.  The good news is that the issue is still available on back order here.  Making the pattern took a bit of time and concentration, but it was worth it.

(BTW, if anyone has the October/November 2005 Threads, #121, I would love to buy it from you, I really just need a copy of the “Inside a Chanel Jacket” article.)  

After I made the pattern I tested it in micro-fleece, figuring that yes, the fleece has stretch, but I’d be able to get a good idea of the drape and fit.

These fleece pants are wonderful.  I’d wear them all day, every day if I could get away with it.  Super soft, squishy, comfy and warm.  Yum.

Next it was time to try out the pattern in a woven fabric.  I found a black brushed twill in my stash, and so got overly ambitious and decided to make a pair of black jeans.  I copied the fly front and pocket details from Vogue 7608.

This is a Today’s Fit pattern from Sandra Betzina.  I’d made it once before and the result was so “bleck” that I tossed the whole thing right into the trash. (The gals from the UK would call that a “wadder.”)  I have Sandra’s books and love her teaching, but this pattern shaping simply did not work for me.  She does give a lot of very helpful info in the pattern, so I do recommend it with reservations.

After I got the jeans mostly done, there were fit issues that needed tweaking.  However, I had no idea where to start with the tweaks and so set the pants aside.

To be completely honest, I also had major problems with the twin needle and the topstitching thread and ended up chucking the pants violently into a corner where they stayed for several days until my temper cooled down.

Then, this past week a sewing friend sent me this link to Silhouette Patterns.  After watching the ultimate pants fitting video, I knew exactly what I had to do to get a great fit in my jeans.  Yay!  The pants fitting 2 video and the fitting jeans videos were also helpful.

Her well-explained logic really helps you understand where the adjustments need to be made and why.

You may notice in the photo that the fly front is gaping.  These pants are not tight, they fit perfectly, and still the fly gaps.

What makes this especially grrrr-worthy  is the note in Sandra B’s pattern directions, “You will love this fly technique.  It looks just like the traditional fly front, the zipper stays well hidden, no matter how tight the jeans are…”

Ummmm… no.

It’s been several years since I first made this pattern, but I seem to recall that I had the same gaping zipper issue back then and figured I did something wrong.  Now I’m thinking it’s not me, and have made a note on the pattern itself, reminding me to never use that technique again.  (I do the same thing in cookbooks, writing notes right on the page about particularly awful recipes or reminders to adjust ingredients.)

Anyhow, between the custom pattern from the Threads directions and the awesome information from Silhouette patterns, I’ve got a great fitting pair of jeans and a perfect pattern to use for future pants projects.

Happy sewing, happy creating and happy December 1st!

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