{"id":2418,"date":"2011-09-05T19:44:08","date_gmt":"2011-09-05T23:44:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/?p=2418"},"modified":"2014-10-09T10:19:10","modified_gmt":"2014-10-09T14:19:10","slug":"sewing-with-knit-fabrics-a-primer-part-1-of-3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/2011\/09\/05\/sewing-with-knit-fabrics-a-primer-part-1-of-3\/","title":{"rendered":"Sewing With Knit Fabrics, A Primer &#8211; Part 1 of 3"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>You may have noticed that I\u2019ve sewn quite a few knit garments this past spring and summer.\u00a0 Such as:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/2011\/04\/12\/what-can-you-do-with-four-yards-of-bamboo\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/2011-04-turquiose-bamboo-jacket.jpg\" alt=\"turquiose bamboo jacket-Simplicity 2603\" width=\"145\" height=\"200\" \/><\/a>\u00a0 <a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/2011\/08\/15\/revised-pattern-review-simplicity-2364-faux-shrug-top\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"simplicity-2364-raspberry\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/simplicity-2364-raspberry.jpg\" alt=\"simplicity-2364-raspberry\" width=\"186\" height=\"200\" \/><\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/sewing.patternreview.com\/cgi-bin\/readreview.pl?readreview=1&amp;reviewnum=62017\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/2011-04-22-new-clothes-005.jpg\" alt=\"black lycra twist front top-Butterick 4789\" width=\"137\" height=\"200\" \/><\/a>\u00a0 <a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/2011\/07\/30\/pattern-review-simplicity-2219-day-and-evening-dresses\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/simplicity-2219-magenta-dress.jpg\" alt=\"simplicity-2219-raspberry-dress\" width=\"103\" height=\"200\" \/><\/a>\u00a0 <a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/2011\/08\/15\/revised-pattern-review-simplicity-2364-faux-shrug-top\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"simplicity-2364-aqua\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/simplicity-2364-aqua.jpg\" alt=\"simplicity-2364-aqua\" width=\"124\" height=\"200\" \/><\/a>\u00a0\u00a0 <a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/2011\/04\/12\/what-can-you-do-with-four-yards-of-bamboo\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"turquiose bamboo twist top-Butterick 4789\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/2011-04-turquiose-bamboo-twist-top.jpg\" alt=\"turquiose bamboo twist top-Butterick 4789\" width=\"137\" height=\"200\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Here are a few reasons why I chose knits (besides that fact that my local fabric store was going out of business and had them for <em>one dollar<\/em> a yard):<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>When you sew with knits you can make a lot of clothing fairly quickly.<\/li>\n<li>Knits don\u2019t ravel and generally don\u2019t require much special treatment.<\/li>\n<li>Because of their stretch knits are comfortable to wear and easier to fit than garments out of woven fabrics.<\/li>\n<li>Most patterns for knits have less complicated design lines and construction is simple.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Some have expressed concern, however, about sewing fabric that stretches.\u00a0 So here are a few things to keep in mind when sewing with knits.<\/p>\n<p><strong><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Choosing the right knit fabric for your pattern, (or the right pattern for your knit):<\/span><\/strong><strong><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Knits have a wide range of stretchiness; you need to choose the fabric that best suits your pattern.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Single knits<\/strong>, also called jersey, are what come to mind when you think of a knit garment such as a t-shirt.\u00a0 A single knit is simply a fabric knitted on a single pair of needles, just like you\u2019d knit a sweater or scarf.\u00a0 They have stretch across the width of the fabric, but not much along the length.\u00a0 Jersey is great for tops, dresses and skirts.\u00a0 If you\u2019ve never sewn with knits before, I\u2019d suggest you start with a jersey in a solid color you love.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Double knits <\/strong>are heavier in weight than single knits because they are made using two sets of needles, so the fabric is double in thickness.\u00a0 It tends to have just a little crosswise stretch and so is good for jackets and pants.\u00a0 A firm double knit can certainly be used in a pattern designed for woven fabrics.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Sweatshirt fleece<\/strong> is a thicker knit with a cozy brushed surface on the wrong side.\u00a0 It tends to have only moderate crosswise stretch and is great for sweatshirts and sweatpants.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Ribbing <\/strong>has prominent vertical ribs on both sides and a great deal of crosswise stretch.\u00a0 Ribbing is traditionally used for sweater and sweatshirt cuffs, necklines and lower bands, but can also be used for close-fitting garments, such as tank tops. (The blue top above was made out of ribbing. Click on the photo to read the full article.)<\/li>\n<li><strong>Four-way stretch knits<\/strong> are usually used for active garments such as swimsuits, leotards and dance costumes.\u00a0 They have crosswise and lengthwise stretch due to Spandex or Lycra being blended in with the primary fiber.\u00a0(The black top above required a four-way stretch knit.)<\/li>\n<li><strong>Slinky knits<\/strong> drape extremely well and rarely wrinkle.\u00a0 You\u2019ll know you have a slinky knit if you pick up a length and it flows through your hands like water.\u00a0 \ud83d\ude42\u00a0 Despite its lovely feel, and your strong desire to make a beautifully flowing\u00a0top or dress out of it, I don\u2019t recommend slinky knits for beginning knit sewers.\u00a0 (If you <strong>must<\/strong> have it, I\u2019ll tell you later how to best work with it.)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>There is a LOT of helpful information on the back of a pattern envelope. \u00a0First you need to look at the recommended fabrics.\u00a0 In the pattern below you\u2019ll see that this top is sized for stretch knits only.\u00a0 If I were to make it out of a woven, I wouldn\u2019t be able to get into it. (Well, maybe just my <em>arm<\/em>, lol.)\u00a0<img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/tutorial-steps\/sewing-with-knits-fabric-recommendations.jpg\" alt=\"sewing-with-knits-fabric-recommendations\" width=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Next you\u2019ll need to check the amount of stretch your fabric must have in order to work with that pattern.\u00a0 If you look at the back of any pattern sized for stretch knits you\u2019ll find a rule similar to the one below.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/tutorial-steps\/sewing-with-knits-stretch-gauge.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" title=\"sewing-with-knits-stretch-gauge\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/tutorial-steps\/sewing-with-knits-stretch-gauge.jpg\" alt=\"sewing-with-knits-stretch-gauge\" width=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Simply hold a folded crosswise section of fabric against the gauge and see if it will stretch (reasonably easily) to the point indicated.\u00a0 (If you have to really <em>yank<\/em> on the fabric to make it stretch that far, it does not have enough stretch for this pattern.\u00a0 Don\u2019t be tempted, you\u2019ll be sooooorrrry.)<\/p>\n<p>Knits come in many different fibers including wool, cotton, rayon, silk and even bamboo.\u00a0 One thing they all seem to have in common is that they tend to shrink in the length over time.\u00a0 (How many too-short t-shirts do <em>you<\/em> have?)\u00a0 I always pre-wash fabric for any sewing project, but it\u2019s a good idea to pre-wash and dry knits two or three times before cutting out.<\/p>\n<p>So to sum up, when it says &#8220;stretch knits&#8221; on the pattern, you only need to keep in mind two things:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Is the fabric appropriate for the pattern style?\u00a0 For example, you wouldn&#8217;t use a lingerie weight tricot knit to make a sweatshirt, neither would you use a sweatshirt knit for a drapey top. (Also note that the fabric suggestions usually give you an idea of what to use, such as in the pattern above where it says &#8220;Jerseys, Matte Jerseys, Stretch Velvet,&#8221; etc.)<\/li>\n<li>Does the fabric have at least the amount of stretch indicated on the gauge?<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>That really is all there is to it.<\/p>\n<p><em><a title=\"Sewing with Knits, A Primer - Part 2\" href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/2011\/09\/08\/sewing-with-knit-fabrics-a-primer-part-2-of-3\/\">Part Two, Cutting Out Knit Fabrics <\/a><\/em>(including how to cut out those ever-slippery slinky knits.)<\/p>\n<p><a title=\"Sewing with Knits, A Primer - Part 3 of 3\" href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/2011\/09\/10\/sewing-with-knit-fabrics-a-primer-part-3-of-3\/\"><em>Part Three, Needles &amp; Stitches<\/em><\/a> (choosing the right ones can make all the difference.)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>You may have noticed that I\u2019ve sewn quite a few knit garments this past spring and summer.\u00a0 Such as: \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0 Here are a few reasons why I chose knits (besides that fact that my local fabric store was going&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[39,186],"tags":[416,415,414,380],"class_list":["post-2418","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-sewing","category-tutorials","tag-knit-clothing","tag-knit-garments","tag-sewing-with-knit-fabric","tag-sewing-with-knits"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.8 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Sewing With Knit Fabrics, A Primer - Part 1 of 3<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Here are things to keep in mind when sewing with stretchy knit fabrics. 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