{"id":2160,"date":"2011-07-04T16:32:49","date_gmt":"2011-07-04T20:32:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/?p=2160"},"modified":"2011-12-19T16:50:37","modified_gmt":"2011-12-19T21:50:37","slug":"pattern-review-jeans-jacket-butterick-5402","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/2011\/07\/04\/pattern-review-jeans-jacket-butterick-5402\/","title":{"rendered":"Pattern Review &#8211; Jeans Jacket &#8211; Butterick 5402"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Our 4th of July plans got cancelled, so I stayed home and sewed!\u00a0 It was a great way to spend the day.<\/p>\n<p>I finally finished this jeans jacket:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/black-denim-jacket-finished.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/black-denim-jacket-finished.jpg\" alt=\"butterick 5402 jeans jacket\" width=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>(Please pardon the weird look on my face, it&#8217;s over 95\u00b0 and humid, and I couldn&#8217;t wait to take that jacket off!\u00a0 Only for you, dear readers, only for you.)\u00a0 \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m thrilled to pieces with how it came out, but in spite of the pattern, not because of it.\u00a0 I don&#8217;t know what was going on at the Butterick company the day they designed this pattern, but WOW, what a mess.<\/p>\n<p>First of all, I&#8217;m so thankful to those pattern reviewers who pointed out many of the problems with this pattern so I could make corrections <em>before <\/em>cutting into my precious fabric.<\/p>\n<p>(There&#8217;s a reason why we&#8217;re always told to make a muslin, although I have to admit that I usually don&#8217;t, shame on me.)<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/pattern-covers-and-tutorial-steps\/jeans-jacket-pattern-butterick-5402.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/pattern-covers-and-tutorial-steps\/jeans-jacket-pattern-butterick-5402.jpg\" alt=\"jeans-jacket-pattern-butterick-5402\" width=\"250\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>If they had simply designed a pattern that looks like the sketch on the pattern envelope, all would be well.\u00a0 The main problems I see are all a matter of proportion.\u00a0If you look closely at the below photo, you can kind of see what I mean even though the busy fabric obscures many of the details.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/butterick.mccall.com\/filebin\/images\/product_images\/First_Full\/B5402.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"border-style: initial; border-color: initial; border-width: 0px;\" title=\"B5402\" src=\"http:\/\/butterick.mccall.com\/filebin\/images\/product_images\/First_Full\/B5402.jpg\" alt=\"B5402\" width=\"450\" height=\"475\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>The sleeves start out kind of wide at the armhole, (not TOO bad) but then they get ridiculously narrow at the cuff.\u00a0 (They almost look leg-of-muttonish, ick.)<\/li>\n<li>Most reviewers have mentioned the majorly dropped shoulder.\u00a0 The sketch on the pattern envelope shows a natural shoulder line. However,\u00a0when I compared the pattern to a jacket that fits well and has a natural shoulder seam, this pattern drops 1 5\/8&#8243;.\u00a0 Another reviewer said she had to shorten the shoulder seam a whole 2&#8243;. Yikes.<\/li>\n<li>The pocket proportions are just silly.\u00a0 The pocket finishes to 4.5&#8243; wide and 7&#8243; deep, which not only looks too long, but is impractically deep.\u00a0 You can&#8217;t get your fingers into the bottom!\u00a0 The pocket on a ready-to-wear jacket that fits well\u00a0finishes to 4.5.&#8221;x4.5&#8243;, which looks nice and is quite usable.<\/li>\n<li>The pocket flap is 1&#8243; wider than the pocket itself, which just looks dumb.\u00a0 Granted, it is acknowledged in the pattern, &#8220;Flap will extend beyond each side of the pocket to ensure that the pocket edges are covered when the flap is down.&#8221; However, on my rtw, the flap is only 1\/4&#8243; wider than the pocket, so it extends just 1\/8&#8243; on each side.<\/li>\n<li>Finally, another reviewer stated that the pocket placement is too high.\u00a0 After comparing measurements with my rtw jacket, I had to agree, and moved the pocket down 2&#8243;.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>In the below photo you can see the pocket sewn on as it was originally drafted.\u00a0 Terrible.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/pattern-covers-and-tutorial-steps\/jean-jacket-pocket-before.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" title=\"jeans jacket pocket before revision\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/pattern-covers-and-tutorial-steps\/jean-jacket-pocket-before.jpg\" alt=\"jeans jacket pocket before revision\" width=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Since it was black on black (and the eyes are getting old!) I had to wait until the next morning sunlight to rip this out and redraft the pocket.\u00a0 On my rtw jacket the pocket bottom is pointed to match the flap and I decided to copy this.\u00a0 You can print out the redrafted, shorter, wider and pointy pocket <a title=\"butterick 5402 revised pocket pattern\" href=\"http:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/butterick-5402-revised-pocket-pattern.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">here<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Here&#8217;s the new and improved pocket.\u00a0 Much better, in my opinion.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/pattern-covers-and-tutorial-steps\/black-denim-jacket-pocket-after.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/pattern-covers-and-tutorial-steps\/black-denim-jacket-pocket-after.jpg\" alt=\"butterick 5402 jeans jacket pocket after revisions\" width=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Your best friend in figuring what changes to make to this pattern will be a similar style jacket that fits you well.\u00a0 If you&#8217;re not accustomed to making pattern alterations, buy some inexpensive fabric and give it a shot.\u00a0 You may or may not come out with a garment you like, but you&#8217;ll be\u00a0sure to learn a lot.<\/p>\n<p>The first changes to make are in the shoulder seam.\u00a0 This means you&#8217;ll need to alter pattern pieces #1 (side front), #2 (front), #5 (yoke) and #9 (front facing.)<\/p>\n<p>Make sure to mark the seam allowances for your size and then compare the shoulder seam measurements to that of your jacket that fits well.\u00a0 Note how much you need to reduce the shoulder seams.\u00a0 I used the slash and spread method.<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>First, draw a line the original length of the shoulder seam on a scrap of pattern tissue.<\/li>\n<li>Next, mark in the distance you want to reduce this seam. This is the new shoulder seam length.<\/li>\n<li>Using a straight-edge, draw a line roughly perpendicular to the shoulder seam, from the seam edge all the way down to the seam allowance at the bottom of the pattern piece.\u00a0 (We&#8217;ll leave just the bottom 5\/8&#8243; seam allowance as a hinge.) Cut the pattern along this line.<\/li>\n<li>Now, meet one edge of your shoulder seam to one end of the new shoulder seam you marked on the scrap of tissue.<\/li>\n<li>Pivot the other shoulder seam edge to meet the other end of you new shoulder seam.\u00a0 The edges may be a little off, but just draw a straight line from corner to corner to true it up.<\/li>\n<li>Making sure your pattern piece has no ripples, use tape to hold the slash in place.\u00a0 (I like to use repositionable scrapbooking adhesive.)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/jeans-jacket-black-denim-pattern-alterations-yoke.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/jeans-jacket-black-denim-pattern-alterations-yoke.jpg\" alt=\"jeans jacket black denim pattern alterations yoke\" width=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>I did three slashes in this yoke piece only to keep the bottom edge from having a sharp curve.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/jeans-jacket-black-denim-pattern-alterations-side-front.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/jeans-jacket-black-denim-pattern-alterations-side-front.jpg\" alt=\"jeans jacket black denim pattern alterations side front\" width=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Since the front shoulder seam is in two pieces, I reduced one by 7\/8&#8243; and the other by 3\/4&#8243; to make my total of 1 5\/8&#8243;.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/jeans-jacket-black-denim-pattern-alterations-front.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/sewing\/jeans-jacket-black-denim-pattern-alterations-front.jpg\" alt=\"jeans jacket black denim pattern alterations front\" width=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>After sewing my jacket with these changes, I noted that I could have taken up the shoulder seam yet another inch.\u00a0 As it is, it&#8217;s only slightly dropped and it&#8217;s fine.<\/p>\n<p>Keep in mind that reducing the shoulder seam effectively reduces your sleeve length.\u00a0 Take some careful measurements to determine if you need to lengthen the sleeve pattern.\u00a0 I usually have to add 2.5&#8243;-3&#8243; to sleeves, but found I only needed to add 2&#8243; to this one to make is just perfect.\u00a0 (Don&#8217;t forget to take into account the length of the cuff when measuring.)<\/p>\n<p>I used flat felled seams and double topstitching wherever possible.\u00a0 True flat felled seams leave a finished interior for a very professional look.<\/p>\n<p>I also altered the sleeve pattern to make it more straight and less tapered from shoulder to cuff.<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>First, compare the sleeve pattern with a ready to wear jacket to determine how wide you&#8217;d like your finished sleeve to be.\u00a0 In my case I added 3\/4&#8243; to each side to make it 1.5&#8243; wider where it joins the cuff.<\/li>\n<li>Use scraps of pattern tissue to add the extra width to the cuff edge.<\/li>\n<li>Taper this line to about the midpoint of the sleeve.<\/li>\n<li>Don&#8217;t forget to add the same amount to each side of your cuff.\u00a0 You&#8217;ll also need to move the button and buttonhole markings out that distance.<\/li>\n<li>I was appalled to see that there was 3\/4&#8243; of ease in the sleeve head, and took that out with my &#8220;pin and squish&#8221; method.\u00a0 That is, on the pattern piece I pinned a 3\/8&#8243; pleat at the center of the sleeve head seam.\u00a0 Then I squished down the pattern, making it flat.\u00a0 This removed the 3\/8&#8243; from each side seam.\u00a0 Even though the sleeve had already been cut out, I could just trim off the excess.<\/li>\n<li>Although it may look like it, it isn&#8217;t necessary to trim the sleeve head at all.\u00a0 This method may mess up matching your notches, but just ignore them, pin together the centers and edges and you&#8217;ll be fine.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/pattern-covers-and-tutorial-steps\/jeans-jacket-sleeve-alteration.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"ngg-singlepic ngg-none\" src=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/wp-content\/gallery\/pattern-covers-and-tutorial-steps\/jeans-jacket-sleeve-alteration.jpg\" alt=\"butterick 5402 jeans jacket sleeve alterations\" width=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Does it seem\u00a0like a lot of extra work?\u00a0 It was!\u00a0 However, this is a jacket that&#8217;s going to be a wardrobe staple for years to come, I hope, so it was worth it to take the additional care and time to create something I can truly be proud of.<\/p>\n<p>Happy sewing!<\/p>\n<p>******Update 7\/5\/2011*****<\/p>\n<p>Only after taking another look at the photo did I realize that I&#8217;m missing a button.\u00a0 Sheesh!\u00a0 I think I&#8217;m also going to redo the bottom band.\u00a0 Will post more pics when those redos are done.<\/p>\n<p>******Update 7\/29\/******<\/p>\n<p>You&#8217;ll find an updated jacket photo and additional review tips <a title=\"revised review of jeans jacket pattern butterick 5402\" href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/2011\/07\/29\/jeans-jacket-review-of-butterick-5402-revised\/\">here<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Our 4th of July plans got cancelled, so I stayed home and sewed!\u00a0 It was a great way to spend the day. I finally finished this jeans jacket: (Please pardon the weird look on my face, it&#8217;s over 95\u00b0 and humid, and&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[39,186],"tags":[350,348,349,338,205],"class_list":["post-2160","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-sewing","category-tutorials","tag-altering-patterns","tag-butterick-5402","tag-denim-jacket","tag-jeans-jacket","tag-sewing-pattern"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.8 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Keepsake Crafts - Sharing the Love of Creativity<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"quilting, sewing, patterns, beads, jewelry, scrapbooking, card making, polymer clay, quilts, crafts, crafting, creative\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/2011\/07\/04\/pattern-review-jeans-jacket-butterick-5402\/\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Sandy\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/2011\/07\/04\/pattern-review-jeans-jacket-butterick-5402\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/2011\/07\/04\/pattern-review-jeans-jacket-butterick-5402\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Sandy\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/keepsakecrafts.net\/blog\/#\/schema\/person\/83a364fc2641e96eb1d1af37a92142cc\"},\"headline\":\"Pattern Review &#8211; 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